Summertime—Music and More

The summer season has begun with overcast skies, sometimes rain and a generally changed atmosphere. Many of our favorite entertainment venues have closed for the season here in Puerto Vallarta and we may find ourselves at a loss as to what to do. The good news is that some of our best musicians are still around and playing regularly for our listening pleasure.

The group Moruno composed of Ignacio Flores, Diego Mateo and Oscar Terrazas is playing incredible Mediterranean music at several venues around the Zona Romantica. You can catch them in full form at Cuates y Cuetes Sunday and Tuesday evenings from 8:30-10:00. Nacho and Diego play Saturdays at Babel Bar from 1-3 and at the wonderful Greek Restaurant, Eclecticos, on Thursday and Saturday evenings from 8:30-9:30.

Tatewari continues to entertain us with fiery flamenco music at Cuates y Cuetes on Wednesdays from 6:00-8:00 PM and Esaú Galvan of the group lights up the afternoon at Babel Bar with friend and flamenco maestro Lobo (Wolfgang Fink) playing improvised flamenco guitar on Sundays from 1:00 to 3:00, the likes of which you have never heard before. Esaú Galvan plays solo at Daiquiri Dick’s seaside restaurant from 7:30-9:30 on Sunday evenings.

A friend and I took advantage of a somewhat quieter period and embarked on a short trip to an enchanting town near Mexico City in the state of Morelos. Tepotzlan is designated as a UNESCO Magical City and is a short bus ride from the capital. I had visited Tepotzlan many years ago intrigued by studies I read in cultural anthropology classes at University that described the town as a typical Mexican town, untouched as yet by 20th century advances and known for the ancient ruins sitting at the top of the mountain overlooking the town.

My friend and I flew Viva Aerobus to Mexico City, took a cab to the bus station and boarded a bus to Tepotzlan. The town is of course larger than when I visited but quite unchanged in its buildings and atmosphere. A quiet, relaxing and reputedly spiritual town, it is nestled at the base of picturesque mountains. The fog rises softly in the mornings to the sound of birds and roosters as the town wakes. There are several sites to visit, including and ex-convent which at present houses an inspiring collection of photographs highlighting the career of Emiliano Zapata. The cathedral is off limits at present due to restoration but the nearby market is lively.

We took a side trip to Cuernavaca, a half hour cab ride away, and thoroughly enjoyed seeing the Robert Brady Museum. Brady converted a Franciscan convent into his home during his lifetime and there you can a collection of art and artifacts from his flamboyant but short life as painter and bon vivant. Some key buildings in Cuernavaca were badly damaged by the 1987 earthquake and remain semi closed but the architecture of the center is spectacular. It is a busy downtown with curving streets and a marvelous feeling of its splendid past. The city, called City of Eternal Spring for its pleasing climate, has long welcomed Mexico City families who built homes there as well as Expats who settled there including the famous Hollywood group persecuted by the witch hunt of the FBI during the McCarthy era of the late 40’s and early 50’s.

Our last night we dined at a lovely restaurant called La Veladora set in a lush garden with views of the surrounding mountains and were treated to a spectacular thunder and lightening storm which continued throughout the night. All in all, we were happy to have the experience of visiting a different part of Mexico and were indeed pleased to return to our lovely home by the sea and, of course, it’s wonderful music.

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